Buying a used car: how to check before you buy
A step-by-step approach using free data to reduce your risk.
Step 1: Research the model first
Before you even look at a specific car, check how the model performs overall. On this site, you can see:
- MOT pass rate — how often this model passes without issues
- Common failure reasons — what actually goes wrong (suspension? brakes? emissions?)
- Year-by-year breakdown — some model years are much worse than others
- Average mileage — what's normal for this model
- Petrol vs diesel — if both are available, which has fewer issues
Search for any model to see its full data.
Step 2: Check the specific car's MOT history
Once you've found a car you like, enter its registration on GOV.UK's free MOT check. This gives you:
- Every MOT result — passes, failures, and the specific reasons
- Advisories — items that aren't failures yet but may need attention soon
- Mileage at each test — the most reliable mileage history available
- Test dates — gaps in testing can indicate periods off the road
Step 3: Red flags in MOT history
If the mileage at one test is lower than the previous test, the car may have been clocked. This is illegal and a serious red flag.
If the same component fails year after year, it's either not being properly repaired or there's a design issue with that model.
Missing years could mean the car was SORN'd (off road), abroad, or had its identity changed. Ask why.
If 10,000 miles is typical per year and one year shows 30,000, the car may have been used as a taxi, delivery vehicle, or hire car.
Advisories aren't failures, but a growing list suggests the owner isn't addressing wear. Those advisories become next year's failures — and your repair bill.
Step 4: Check tax and SORN
Use the DVLA vehicle enquiry to check the car's tax status. An untaxed car can't be legally driven. Also check if it has been SORN'd recently — a car that's been sitting off-road may have issues from lack of use (seized brakes, flat-spotted tyres, battery problems).
Step 5: Run a vehicle history check
The free tools don't cover everything. Before handing over money, run a vehicle history check to verify:
- Outstanding finance — if there's finance on it, the lender can take it back
- Stolen status — checked against the Police National Computer
- Insurance write-off — Cat S/N (structural/non-structural damage)
- Plate changes — previous registrations that might hide history
This typically costs £5–£20 and could save you thousands. See our comparison of vehicle check providers.
Step 6: Physical inspection
Data checks can't replace seeing the car in person. When viewing:
- Check the items from the MOT history — if advisories mentioned worn tyres, are they new now or still the same ones?
- Look at the areas where the model commonly fails (check the common problems page for the make)
- Test drive on different road surfaces — suspension issues often show on bumpy roads
- Check all lights, indicators, and dashboard warning lights
- Look under the car for oil leaks, corrosion, and exhaust damage
- If in doubt, pay for an independent pre-purchase inspection (AA, RAC, or a local mechanic)